The last of Newfoundland’s roadless villages offer lessons in survival | Unpublished
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Source Feed: The Globe and Mail
Author: Ethan Murphy
Publication Date: September 25, 2025 - 13:00

The last of Newfoundland’s roadless villages offer lessons in survival

September 25, 2025

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const gi_content = ` series: true [content] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy04_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy04_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy04_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 2-3 desktop-aspect-ratio: 3-2 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] Francois and Grey River, Newfoundland, are towns without roads. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy02_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy02_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy02_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 2-3 desktop-aspect-ratio: 3-2 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] You may find cement paths for ATVs and snowmobiles, but in these small communities on the island’s southwest coast, the only way in or out is by ferry, which comes once a day. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy01_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy01_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy01_lg.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 5-4 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: map: [.text] [.+paragraphs] At their height, both communities had 300-400 residents. Now there are about 60 people in Francois and 80 in Grey River, and some leave for work for part of the year. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy05_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy05_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy05_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: true mobile-aspect-ratio: 2-3 desktop-aspect-ratio: 3-2 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: true audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] Still, these small outports tucked into the fjords survive. The citizens cherish the community they have and the values they hold. “If something happens here, you know people who can help you,” said Eli Skinner of Francois. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy06_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy06_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy06_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 4-5 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 caption: ATVs are critical in the outports for transportation and productivity. credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy08_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy08_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy08_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 2-3 desktop-aspect-ratio: 3-2 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] Here, the lives of the residents are strongly linked to the elements and to interpersonal connections. The way of life is rooted in face-to-face relationships. [] [] [] :skip ****** diptych ****** :endskip [.slide] type: diptych mobile-aspect-ratio: 5-4 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 map: [.diptych] photo-1-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy22_sm.jpg photo-1-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy22_lg.jpg caption-1: The MV Marine Voyager docks at Francois. Crew and community members help unload the freight. credit-1: audio-1: audio-1-label: false audio-1-description: photo-2-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy09_sm.jpg photo-2-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy09_lg.jpg caption-2: credit-2: audio-2: audio-2-label: false audio-2-description: [] [.text] [.+paragraphs] Traditions are upheld, risks and responsibilities are shared and leadership is divided. “We go out, up the bay and cut our own wood, and when something needs to be done, we all join in and do it together,” said Tommy Lushman of Grey River. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy17_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy17_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy17_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 2-3 desktop-aspect-ratio: 3-2 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] Francois was first inhabited in 1832 and Grey River in 1835, due to their proximity to prosperous fishing grounds. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy18_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy18_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy18_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 3-2 desktop-aspect-ratio: 3-2 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] But as Newfoundland’s economy shifted away from fishing in the 20th century, small port towns started contracting. The province began encouraging the practice, in 1954 offering families money to relocate to “growth centres” on the island. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy23_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy23_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy23_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 4-5 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 caption: Antlers decorate a balcony in Francois. Sharing and distributing fish and wild game is a way for community members to collectively support one another. credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] This was the first of three resettlement programs offered to Newfoundlanders, and by the mid-1970s about 300 communities were shuttered as a result. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy19_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy19_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy19_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 2-3 desktop-aspect-ratio: 3-2 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] Then, in 1992, with Northern cod stocks depleted, the government issued a moratorium on cod fishing. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy20_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy20_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy20_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 5-4 desktop-aspect-ratio: 4-5 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] [] [] [] :skip ****** diptych ****** :endskip [.slide] type: diptych mobile-aspect-ratio: 5-4 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 map: [.diptych] photo-1-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy24_sm.jpg photo-1-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy24_lg.jpg caption-1: Children are integral to keeping communities like Grey River alive. credit-1: audio-1: audio-1-label: false audio-1-description: photo-2-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy29_lg.jpg photo-2-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy29_lg.jpg caption-2: Since the moratorium, lobster has replaced cod as the main focus of commercial fishing. credit-2: audio-2: audio-2-label: false audio-2-description: [] [.text] [.+paragraphs] This was the last straw for many remaining outports. But not for Francois. Not for Grey River. [] [] [] :skip ****** diptych ****** :endskip [.slide] type: diptych mobile-aspect-ratio: 5-4 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 map: [.diptych] photo-1-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/NEW_NFLD_MURPHY_019_H.jpg photo-1-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/NEW_NFLD_MURPHY_019_H.jpg caption-1: credit-1: audio-1: audio-1-label: false audio-1-description: photo-2-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy14_lg.jpg photo-2-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy14_lg.jpg caption-2: credit-2: audio-2: audio-2-label: false audio-2-description: [] [.text] [.+paragraphs] Two ferries, the MV Marine Voyager and the MV Gallipoli, service the outports, bringing freight, mail and goods that are distributed from the sole store in both communities. When residents need to reach a place deeper in the mainland, they ride the ferry (two hours from Grey River, four hours from Francois) to its final destination, Burgeo, which connects to a highway. But the southwest coast of Newfoundland gets a significant amount of fog and precarious weather, and it is common for the ferry to be stormbound at port. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy12_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy12_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy12_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: true mobile-aspect-ratio: 3-2 desktop-aspect-ratio: 3-2 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy16_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy15_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy15_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 4-5 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 caption: Grey River residents unload freight from the MV Gallipoli. credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] Most of the time, residents of the outposts rely on each other. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy13_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy13_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy13_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 2-3 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 caption: The Riverside General is Grey River's only store, functioning as a post office, grocery store and hub of the community. credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy10_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy10_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy10_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 3-2 desktop-aspect-ratio: 3-2 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] Skinner, who has a garden – given the terrain, not everyone can grow one – fertilizes it with fish scraps and kelp tea, demonstrating the kind of resourcefulness that is common in these parts. [] [] [] :skip ****** diptych ****** :endskip [.slide] type: diptych mobile-aspect-ratio: 5-4 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 map: [.diptych] photo-1-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy27_sm.jpg photo-1-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy27_lg.jpg caption-1: credit-1: audio-1: audio-1-label: false audio-1-description: photo-2-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy26_sm.jpg photo-2-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy26_lg.jpg caption-2: credit-2: audio-2: audio-2-label: false audio-2-description: [] [.text] [.+paragraphs] “My cabbages were between three and five pounds last year,” said George Durnford of Francois. “I gave all my cabbages to my friends. That makes them happy, so I gave them away.” [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy28_sm_.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy28_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy28_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 4-5 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 caption: The MV Marine Voyager leaves Grey River for Burgeo, a two-hour trip on the Atlantic Ocean. credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] Despite the serious challenges that come with living in a remote place, there also comes a type of unity, right in front of you, as large as life. [] [] [] :skip ****** photo ****** :endskip [.slide] type: photo photo-sm: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy30_sm.jpg photo-lg: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy30_lg.jpg photo-xl: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy30_xl.jpg fullscreen-mobile: false fullscreen-desktop: false mobile-aspect-ratio: 5-4 desktop-aspect-ratio: 5-4 caption: credit: audio: audio-label: false audio-description: [.text] [.+paragraphs] “I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else,” said Skinner. [] [] [] :skip ****** photographer bio ****** :endskip [.slide] type: bio label: About the photographer photo: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/files/interactive/canada/features/photo-popup/stories/nfld-ferry/murphy_bio_size.jpg photo-credit: Hannah Boone bio: Ethan Murphy is a lens-based artist from St. John’s, NL. He holds a BFA in Photography Studies from Toronto Metropolitan University. Murphy has exhibited internationally, including presentations at the National Gallery of Canada and various festivals and museums. He has participated in residencies with Fogo Island Arts and Artlink in Fort Dunree. In 2019, he was awarded The Scotiabank New Generation Photography Award. [] :skip ****** credits ****** :endskip [.slide] type: credits [.+credits] Photography and story by Ethan Murphy Editing by Lisan Jutras Photo editing by Clare Vander Meersch Visuals editing by Solana Cain and Liz Sullivan Digital presentation by Sarah Palmer Interactive design and development by Christopher Manza [] [] [] `; !function(){"use strict";window.addEventListener("message",(function(a){if(void 0!==a.data["datawrapper-height"]){var e=document.querySelectorAll("iframe");for(var t in a.data["datawrapper-height"])for(var r=0;r



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